New Delhi: TORA & TORY, a new Indian demi-fine
jewellery label founded and creatively led by J. R. Nagrath, has made its debut
with the launch of its limited inaugural collection, Gyre. The brand enters the
market with a strong focus on craftsmanship, natural gemstones, and a new
stone-setting technique that it describes as the T&T Cliff Set.
Positioned within India’s growing demi-fine jewellery
segment, TORA & TORY is built around the idea that technique and craft
should lead the design process. The brand places artisanal precision at the
centre of its identity, with an emphasis on hand-led production, gemstone
authenticity, and limited-edition jewellery.
The key highlight of the debut collection is the Cliff
Setting, formally known as the T&T Cliff Set. According to the brand, the
technique combines elements of bezel, prong, and tension settings, while being
angled at approximately 30 degrees. The result is designed to make the gemstone
appear as though it is emerging from the surface of the metal rather than being
placed above it.
The visual effect is inspired by the image of a rock
protruding from a cliff face, creating a dimensional and uninterrupted
appearance. The brand said the setting required four months of trial and error,
along with hand-led annealing and hardening processes, to achieve the final
structure and finish.
TORA & TORY’s debut also places focus on natural
gemstones. The brand uses 100% natural stones, sourced in rough form directly
from mines before being cut and polished by its partners in Jaipur. The stones
are selected before the designs are finalised, allowing the jewellery pieces to
be built around the character, colour, and form of each gemstone.
Beyond the new setting technique, the label also draws from
traditional jewellery-making methods. These include hand-push engraving,
traditional hand-setting, hand-texturing, microscopic finishing standards, and
the use of the Fibonacci sequence as a design ratio framework. This combination
positions the brand between innovation-led design and craft preservation.
TORA & TORY plans to release only two to three
collections each year, with every collection produced in limited numbers. Once
a piece is sold, it will not be repeated. The brand follows an
acquisition-by-selection model, where a limited number of clients are invited
to collect the work each season.
With Gyre, TORA & TORY enters India’s jewellery market
with a craft-led and collectible approach. The launch reflects a wider shift
within the demi-fine jewellery category, where brands are focusing on
authenticity, limited production, design innovation, and stronger storytelling
around technique.
